Tarmacadam

Driving around Plymouth today, you can't help but notice all the potholes everywhere. In many places, the old cobbled roads underneath the tarmac are being revealed. Saltash Passage is one particular place where the cobbles are appearing and it's easy to imagine what the area must have once looked like when trams travelled towards the ferry taking passengers over to Saltash. Many people will think that tarmac is a relatively new thing but amazingly, tarred roads date back to the 8th century and appeared in Baghdad at the time. Tarmac as we know it today has been around since 1903. Patented by Edgar Purnell Hooley in 1901, some of the streets of Plymouth were tarmaced in the early 1900s including roads in Stonehouse which were paid for by the then Earl of Mount Edgcumbe. Previously, Macadam road surfaces were used from 1820 and invented by Scotsman, John Loudon MacAdam. He called the process, macadamisation. McAdam's road surfaces were ideal for horses and carriages but were dusty and eroded when it rained. Once motor transport was introduced, the roads couldn't cope and a new formula containing tar was used. Hooley's patent involved mechanically mixing tar and aggregate and this was prepared before it was put on the road surface and compressed using a steam roller. Today, cobbled streets and lovely paved footpaths are regularly tarmaced over much to the annoyance of people who prefer the streets as they are, a reminder of times gone by. It's amazing to think that this whole process isn't a new one and has been going on in Plymouth for well over 100 years.

The photo shows Bedford Street on the day that the circus came to town. No cobbled streets there, just a dusty old macadam road.

Goulds in Ebrington Street

Here's a lovely old photo showing where Goulds Surplus Store stands today.

Frederick Gould founded the shop in the early 1900s and they had outlets in various parts of Plymouth before moving into their present building in 1955. Many older residents will remember that the building once housed the Cinedrome, a cinema that was bombed during the Second World War. It's unique facade still remains and Plymouth City Council are eager to retain the older parts of the street, including the old shopfronts.

This photo features the number 24 tram on its route from Prince Rock to the Theatre Royal by Derry's Clock. With the constant heavy traffic nowadays, it's hard to imagine that trams ever travelled that way today and were the main form of transport. It's a very quiet scene and the tram driver seems to have stopped to pose for the camera. The only person on board is the conductor who is right at the back.

There are many interesting adverts on the walls of the buildings including ones for Pophams, G P Skinner, H Matthews' Restaurant, Four Castles Tea and a production at the local theatre. I wonder how many of these names are remembered by the people of Plymouth today? Popham's survived to well after the war but, today, in now long gone.

I haven't been along Ebrington Street for a long time but this photo makes me want to go there and see just how much has changed over the years.

Plymouth's Volcano

With all the catastrophes around the world at the moment, it might surprise many people in Plymouth that they live so close to an extinct volcano. Looking around the city, it is probably, nowadays, almost impossible to guess where it is. Many people would probably look inwards towards the land in their search for it but you're more likely to guess its location by looking out towards the sea. From the Hoe, looking out towards the Sound, is a giant plug that seals off the vent of this once active volcano. Have you guessed it yet? Yes, the plug I'm talking about is now Drake's Island. The shores of Kingsand are made up of a purple volcanic rock called Rhyolite. A close inspection of the rock shows that some of it contains thousands of gas bubbles from the volcano's last eruption. Rhyolite is a rock formed by the solidification of molten magma. For all of you concerned about an imminent eruption, don't worry. The last eruption took place a very long time ago. The Rhyolite dates from the Permian Period (299 - 251 million years ago)which represents a geologic period which included the diversification of early amniotes into the predocessors of mammals, turtles, lepidosaurs and archosaurs. It is the last period of the Paleozoic Era and included the largest mass extinction known to science. Ninety percent of all marine species became extinct, as did seventy percent of all land organisms.

Skull and Crossbones at Eggbuckland Cemetery

Anyone visiting the cemetery at St Edwards Church at Eggbuckland, and many other cemeteries around the country, might think that they've discovered the graves of pirates when they see the markings of the skull and crossbones on ancient headstones. In Leixlip Church in County Kildare, the same skull and crossbones can be found and it is said that many members of the military are buried there from the time of the crusades. A stone at the southeast corner of the church bears a connection to the Knights Templar Crusaders with a worn symbol of the skull and crossbones. However, the skull and crossbones in Eggbuckland cemetery neither mark the graves of members of the Knights Templar or pirates. Some people have suggested that the graves are the victims of plague, poisoning or that the people buried there were Catholics. The truth is, maybe, not so romantic. In the 1600's and 1700's, attitudes to death were very different to what they were in the 1800's and later. The motifs were put there just as a reminder to the living of what happened to the body after death. People were judged on the lives they led and not hope of forgiveness in the afterlife.

Old film of Buffalo Bill and his Wild West Show

I've written before about Buffalo Bill's visit to Plymouth on 3rd June, 1904 and I've heard tales of people's great-grandfathers seeing the show. It seems amazing that people who are alive today have this direct link to the Wild West through their recent ancestors but, even with listening to the tales that survive, it's hard to imagine what the show was really like all that time ago. There seems to be few photos and no movie footage of the event in Plymouth. It must have seemed incredible in a time when there was no television, and little film performances, for people to see events recreated that they'd only read about in newspapers and comics. Seeing Buffalo Bill and Willie Sitting Bull, the son of Sitting Bull must have seemed amazing at the time. The event took place at the Exhibition Fields at Pennycomequick and the show would have included a re-enactment of the defeat of General Custer at Little Big Horn, complete with a cast of many Red Indians. Children and adults would have been fascinated.

Here is the only film I can find of the show and although it was probably shot in the US, it will give you an idea what the show must have been like when Buffalo Bill and his Wild West Show came to Plymouth all those many years ago.

Elephants in Bedford Street

Here's a lovely photo taken in Bedford Street in the early 1900s. The circus was in town and and its many elephants were paraded through the streets of Plymouth. The circus would have been a huge attraction back then and would be the only chance that people would have to see such wild animals so close up. A group of boys have gathered on the left of the picture and one of them is feeding one of the elephants. On the right, is a man on a chariot and on the left is what appears to be the ringmaster, complete with straw boater and whip. In the far background, is an ornately decorated float being driven by many finely dressed horses. On top of the float, almost twelve feet up, are characters from the forthcoming show complete in their elaborate costumes. A parade through the streets like this would have assured that many people knew the circus was in town and would guarantee that children would pester their parents to take them to the show. In an age with no televisions or cinema, the only contact children would have had with animals such as tigers and elephants would be through books and comics. Being taken to the circus would have been an exciting and fascinating experience for them. Imagine the talk in the playground the next day. The same children might have also been to shows to see Houdini or Buffalo Bill who also appeared in Plymouth around about the same time. It's an amazing animate scene and the once grand Globe Hotel can be seen in the background. Unfortunately, it's all now long gone. Bedford Street was destroyed in the Blitz of 1941 and a parade of elephants through the streets of Plymouth today would probably be frowned upon.

The Way We Live

Here's an interesting film, called 'The Way We Live', which was shot in Plymouth in 1945. It stars Patsy Scantlebury as Alice Copperwheat whose family's house is destroyed in the Blitz and they're billeted at Horrabridge before moving into a newly built pre-fab. The film starts with a writer, played by Peter Willes, travelling to Plymouth to see what the new plans for the rebuilding of the city involve. There is interesting footage showing Plymouth devasted - only a few buildings remained complete in the city centre after the heavy bombing. Seeing it as moving footage somehow makes it all more real and it almost appears more recent than just looking at photographs. There are clips of the Hoe which includes dancing on the Promenade and also film of Efford, the Barbican, the railway station and many other areas around the city.

 

The film was financed by J Arthur Rank and was directed by Jill Craigie, who later became Mrs Michael Foot. A young Michael Foot appears in later parts of the film together with Sir Patrick Abercrombie, the architect of the new city, Winston Churchill, Lady Astor and James Paton Watson, the city engineer. Rank's accountant tried to halt the production of the film half way through because he felt that it wasn't commercial enough for general release. The film went ahead after Craigie appealed to Rank and trial runs were hosted at cinemas that were usually hostile to documentary films. The audience of one East End cinema booed it but after it was championed by a notable film critic, the film was released nationwide.

Amazingly, it broke all box office records in Plymouth and one audience member said that it, 'revived the interest of the man in the street in what was to be done to erase the scar which lies across the city.' Watching the film today, it's hard to imagine that people were ever so posh. It's interesting to watch though to see how the city has changed over the last 65 years and I can see how people then would have been very impressed with the new city centre after the devastation of the old one. Peter Willes, who played the writer in the film, went on to appear in bit parts in future movies before becoming a executive producer on many tv productions throughout the 1960s and 1970s. Many of the other actors in the film though were never heard of again. Patsy Scantlebury, who lived in St Budeaux, was chosen for the role after being seen on Plymouth Hoe jitterbugging with an American sailor. At the time, she was just 17. She had previously worked in a post office. Patsy signed a seven year contract with Rank and played an air hostess in 'Blind Goddess' as Patsy Drake. There doesn't seem to be much information about her after this but today, she would be about 82.